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Exterior House Painting Rules You Should Never Break

Last updated: 05-10-2020

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Exterior House Painting Rules You Should Never Break

No home improvement project revives, beautifies and protects a house as quickly, effectively and affordably as exterior painting. A new coat of paint can completely transform the look of your home. And while painting a house can be a big job, it’s a project that can be completed in a week or two.

If you hire a professional painter, expect to pay from $1,000 to $6,000 or more, depending on the size and condition of your house, according to HomeAdvisor. By making it a do-it-yourself project, you can save on labor, which typically accounts for more than half of the cost. But know that painting your home will take some serious effort.

Regardless of whether you hire a professional or take on the work yourself, you'll want this project done right so you don't have to repeat it in a few years. With this in mind, here are 10 exterior house painting rules you should never break:

Pay for top-quality paint, primer and caulking compound. Top-quality paint lasts longer and flows and covers better than poor-quality paint. Buy paint that has a lifetime warranty against defects in the finish.

With most house paint, you get what you pay for – and the best ingredients are expensive. High-quality exterior paint typically costs from $35 to $40 per gallon, and up to $80 per gallon. Be sure to choose 100% acrylic paint.

Top-performing exterior paint brands include Behr Premium Plus Ultra exterior paint and Clark + Kensington exterior paint, which cost between $35 and $40 per gallon, and Sherwin-Williams Duration exterior paint and Benjamin Moore Aura exterior paint, which are both above $50 per gallon.

Flat finishes, which are preferred for siding, do a good job of hiding defects and irregularities. Satin and semi-gloss enamels, used for trim, are more durable and easier to wash.

For paint to adhere well, it must be applied to a surface that is clean, dry and not flaking or peeling. Depending on the condition of existing siding and trim, this often means considerable scraping and sanding before you can paint.

Begin by washing the surfaces. You can use a hose and a scrub brush with water and detergent, or a pressure washer. If you use a pressure washer, be careful not to drive water deeply into the joints between siding or erode the surface of the wood with the high-pressure water spray.

To remove loose, flaking paint, you’ll need a scraper. Then, for removing tougher paint and smoothing the surface, a 5-inch disc power sander or a random-orbit sander will work well. Start with 60-grit sandpaper and follow up with 100-grit sandpaper.

The idea isn’t to remove all of the paint – just to remove loose paint and smooth the surface. Use a putty knife and wood filler to fill cracks and holes. Let the filler dry, and then sand these areas again. Brush off all of the dust, caulk the joints, and allow the caulk to dry before applying primer.

Although today’s house paints do not contain lead, paint applied before 1978 is likely to contain lead. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency warns that any home improvement work involving lead paint can create a lead dust or chips that can be hazardous to the health of children and adults.

For lead testing and removal, the EPA recommends you contact a local lead-safe certified renovation contractor, which can be found through the EPA’s website.

Begin with a high-quality alkyd primer for your base coat if you’re painting over bare wood or metal, which will be specified on the paint label and will help keep the paint from bleeding. Some painters like to tint the primer toward the final paint color to minimize the need for two finish coats of paint. Others prefer to tint the primer with a contrasting color, which will highlight any spots that the final coats haven’t completely covered.

After the primer, apply the first finish coat. After it becomes tacky, apply a second top coat.

Use a high-quality brush, roller and, for some houses, an airless sprayer that can be rented at most home improvement centers or tool rental outlets. The easiest way to apply primer and paint to textured surfaces is to spray it on with an airless sprayer, and then back-roll it by hand with a roller to ensure adhesion.

If you have never used an airless sprayer, pay close attention to the equipment’s directions and gain a little experience by painting a less-conspicuous side of the house first. Work from a 5-gallon paint bucket, and use a paint strainer so paint doesn’t clog the sprayer.

Don’t paint your house yourself unless you have the time, tools, skills and stamina to do the work. Depending on the size and height of your house and the condition of the existing siding, preparing and painting a house on your own can be a tedious, difficult job.

Don’t paint on hot days, in the rain or during windy weather. Ideal temperatures for painting are between 50 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit. Hot weather causes the paint to dry too quickly, as does direct sun. When possible, wait for the shade. Temperatures below 50 degrees may prevent the paint from adhering to the surface properly. Dampness or dew can bubble surfaces.

Protect decks, shrubs, gardens, patios and walkways from paint spills and splatters with drop cloths or plastic sheeting. This will save you from big cleanup problems later. If you use an airless paint sprayer, masking and covering is imperative – overspray can even coat your neighbors’ cars.

If you’re a painting novice, do your homework. You can find lots of free information online, including videos by experts that break techniques down into steps.

Work from the top down, starting with overhangs so fresh paint won’t drip on newly painted surfaces. Paint the siding, and when that’s dry, tape around windows and doors, and paint the trim. As soon as you’re finished painting the trim, remove painter’s tape or masking tape so it won’t leave residue. After all of the paint has dried, touch up areas where paint hasn’t fully covered the surface.

Request detailed bids from at least three painting contractors, and ask them for the names and phone numbers of satisfied customers. Call two or three of those customers or, if possible, visit their homes to inspect the workmanship. Networks like Angie's List, HomeAdvisor, Fixr and even Google and Yelp can help you find local professionals and see reviews from previous customers.


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